WHILE Indian cuisine is generally divided into North and South, each with its own distinctive flavours and spice intensities, that is just too much of an over-simplification for the sake of convenience.
There is a spectrum of hues and shades of flavours between them that would take more than a lifetime to appreciate.
The mix of flavours in Indian cuisine, from state to state, yields a magnificent panorama of colours, smells, tastes and experiences. What we have access to in Singapore is somewhat limited and concentrated to certain areas, often determined by the preferences of the diaspora, many of them concentrated in the Serangoon Road area, and some independent restaurants sprinkled around the island.
Breaking away from the conventional appreciation of Indian cuisine, a new entrant to the high-end scene, ammakase, gives you the option to take in the richness of the varied offerings from the Sub-continent’s 1,500km of coastal cuisines.
Neo-Indian Fare From ammakase
This stylish restaurant, by virtue of its relatively aloof position on the fourth floor of One Raffles Place, aspires to become a destination, serving ‘Neo-Indian’ fare. You aren’t likely to stumble upon it in the central business district, where it’s either about quick meals or deal-making lunches.
While ammakase tries to cater to both parties, it’s obvious the latter is its focus. With price points upwards of $79++ for the multi-course menus (more if there’s wine pairing) there’s a natural process of selection when it comes to the clientele of this new Indian fare.
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Global Influence Of Indian Food
The name ‘ammakase’ brings together various influences.
‘Omakase’, from the Japanese dining concept of serving you the freshest produce of the day.
‘Amma’ for the mothers’ traditional recipes that have been gathered from the coastal Indian states and given a modern twist, with different culinary styles.
Executive Chef Abhijit Saha and Head Chef Robin Wing curate an ever-changing menu that honours recipes from generations of mothers by employing avant-garde techniques inspired by culinary traditions spanning Japan, France, Italy, Korea, and beyond.
“Each dish becomes a masterpiece that transcends borders and captivates the palate,” explains Shamini Suppiah, ammakase’s brand ambassador.
Sustainable Servings
The farm-to-table concept is acted out where possible. The restaurant collaborates with local farms and also has a 50 sqft plot on a farm in Lim Chu Kang, where it grows produce that is served at the restaurant.
In keeping with the current trend to remain environmentally aware and responsive, sustainability and the like are managed throughout the supply chain.
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Dining Experience
“This is not so much a restaurant, as it is an experience,” CEO Saravana JK explained at lunch.
The setting is the horseshoe chef’s table, with a view of what is being put together for the Indulgence Menu.
Bengali chaats — street food — kicks off the proceedings. A flavourful burst of beetroot and mango to tickle the taste buds as North meets South.
The flow of dishes is then paced to allow each to be evaluated and savoured.
The Grilled Pacific Rock Lobster (Alleppey style) is an interplay between coconut notes and moist, juicy crustacean flavours. Duck, not often found on Indian menus, is served up seared with garam masala, a tender yet firm prelude to the main course.
The biryani is almost a de rigueur expectation and is presented with pomegranate raita to balance the flavours.
Dessert is where the fusion kicks in prominently. Paayasam Panna Cotta is custard with a strong flavour of the milky dessert, and the Gulab Jamun cheesecake is a moderation of the normally oversweet Indian desserts.
Decor To Match
Complemented with inventive mocktails and cocktails along the way, it’s quite the food adventure in a setting that is flash without going over the top.
A large wall painting occupies the length of the main dining room, which seats 48, and the private dining rooms have a more exclusive feel about them, seating 22 diners.
The contemporary decor is conducive for deal-making discussions with discrete service ensuring a steady flow of food and drinks.
At ammakase, if you’re expecting strong flavours from Indian cuisine, you won’t be disappointed. But you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the combination of subtle nuances and textures that, when paired with the drinks whipped up by the mixologists, provide just enough differentiation from what you would otherwise expect from your past interaction with Indian food.
Ammakase is located at #04-48 One Raffles Place Singapore 048616. It is open daily, but with varying operating hours. Visit www.ammakase.com for details of hours and menu prices.
